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Yes, it seems it’s difficult to do a good chrome job if there’s a lot of pitting in the aluminum. Mine came out okay and looks much better than before, but if you look closely you can see flaws.
Here’a a demo video too: https://youtu.be/4qfEFd48tkc
I believe the white button came first based on a comment someone made here:
http://jukeboxaddicts.proboards.com/
You might ask on that forum about the latch bar. There’s a guy named Rich that’s pretty helpful.
Here’s what mine sounds like with the volume on the emulator at zero.
It coincides with the red LED that comes on when something is played. It’s not really noticeable when the volume is turned up about halfway or more so not a big problem really. Just seems strange.
No. The only wires near the board are the ones that connect to it and they are directed away from it.
Yes to both questions. Two sides per album. And actually I meant to say you recycle every 16 songs. The first cycle being the pairs 1 and 9 through 8 and 16. The next cycle being 17 and 25 through 24 and 32. The albums need to be the pairs shown here:
Here’s a step by step procedure I used.
1. Make sure the Titles and Contributing Artists fields are filled in. The Contributing Artist names have to be exactly the same otherwise the software will list them both on the index cards. It doesn’t matter now what the names are as long as they’re all different.
2. Do the albums first if you have any. I set mine up with 10 so I would have 5 in front (A1-K1) and 5 in the back (L1-V1). Rename the album files as follows:
001 and 009 (A1 and B1), 017 and 025 (C1 and D1), 033 and 041 (E1 and F1), etc.
3. Now sort the file by Contributing Artist and rename the remaining files as follows:
002 and 010 (A2 and B2), 003 and 011 (A3 and B3), 004 and 012 (A4 and B4)… etc.
It get a little tedious when you recycle through numbers after every 32 songs and having to work around the albums that have already been named but if you try to rename a file with a number that’s already used you’ll get an error message.
I built an upload file with the names in the correct order. It was a huge PITA but once I got things where they need to be I can revise it fairly easily. Would be so much easier if you could name them in the order they show on the index.
I did some more experimenting with different resistor values in the volume control to try and improve the range even more. The best combination I came up with was to replacing the 15 ohm resistors with 20 ohms (2×10 in series) and replacing the 22 ohm resistors with 43 ohms (10+33 in series). Now I’m getting about a 6dB reduction for the medium setting and another 6dB for the low setting.
Mine has done that a couple of times. Once when I inserted my Bluetooth transmitter in the AUX jack while it was playing. The other when I touched the volume knob and discharged some static electricity. I’ve also noticed even a small static discharge will cause it to pause momentarily.
I have buzzing in both speakers but it’s not too loud so you can’t really hear it when the volume is turned up at least half way. You don’t have any buzzing at all when the volume on the emulator is turned all the way down?
Scudie,
I got mine working! It turned out I had the ground wires coming from the volume control going to the wrong speaker. I thought I had tried it before but I may have mixed up the positive wires. Anyway it’s working now and I believe it’s wired just like yours only bypassing the relay.
Interesting that the schematic shows two 22 ohm and one 220 ohm resistors but mine had one 22 and two 220 ohm resistors. Strange…
I made a couple of other modifications also. I replaced the 10 ohm resistors with 20 ohm resistors. That makes the change in volume a little more so a little more useable. I also clipped the connections of the 220 ohm resistors on the outside of the control unit. Now when no buttons are pushed in the volume is completely cut off. That will be handy when using a Bluetooth unit so there’s no echo effect because of the Bluetooth delay.
Thanks again!
Steve
