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Okay… I think I just figured out the error in my theory. If the backside of the transformer is 24V and 3 amps, that’s 72 watts. Assuming 100% efficiency the front side at 120V and 72 watts would be just 0.6 amps. Conversely, for the front side to be pulling 3 amps at 120V (1800watts), the back side would have to be pulling 15 amps. Not good for a transformer rated at 3 amps.
I forget about you folks in the UK having a fuse in your power cords. Here in the US there’s always a fuse first thing inside all electrical devices. My thinking on where to put the 3 amp fuse is that if there’s a surge or overload on the output side of the transformer there will also be a similar surge on the input side. My thinking is that because the transformer isn’t 100 efficient the current on the input side is always a little higher than it is on the output side. So putting the 3 amp fuse before the transformer should protect it as well as protect someone touching the wallbox if there was a short occurring before the transformer. Killing two birds with one stone sort of. I saw where they put it in the instructions but I’m not convinced that’s the right place for it if there’s only one fuse. I probably should research my theory a little though just to be safe.
What happened that cause your transformer to blow?
And it would probably be easier to polish when it’s straight before you bend it if you do decide the edges need to be polished.
I know the ends where the LED shines into the Perspex will need to be polished but I’m not sure how important it will be to polish the edges. Might be worth trying without polishing first.
I’ve been putting a fuse in front of the transformer just because that’s the way all other electrical devices I’ve seen are set up. Any reason why you put yours behind the transformer?
The clear Perspex thought give me an idea…. Years ago I helped my son make some “angel eyes” for his car headlights. They’re similar to the lighted rings that BMW started using several years ago. He found the method on a car forum somewhere. We took the control rod from some mini blinds (which was made from clear Perspex), cut it to the right length and heated it so we could bend it in a circle. We left enough of a gap to put an LED pointing into each end of the ring. The Perspex transmits light quite well the entire rig would light up. You could probably do something similar with Perspex bands in between your records. That would also eliminate the problem I had with the light from the LEDs being too focused.
I tried putting red LEDs under my 3W1 box hoping to get a red glow from underneath but It didn’t work as well as I thought. It looked more like individual LEDs than a uniform glow that I was hoping for so I removed them. I may try putting them in the back and see how that looks.
Yes. Another odd thing I’ve noticed is that the auxiliary output is really more of a headphone level output. It’s much higher than a line output would be. The level is also controled by the volume pot so you can’t turn the speaker volume to zero and use the headphone output with a Bluetooth transmitter without hearing both sets of speakers and the delay effect of the Bluetooth. Would be better IMO if it was a true line output with constant volume level.
Hey folks,
Any chance you’re using a US model in Europe? I was reading on another forum where someone was trying that and was getting a similar problem. I think he was getting D4 when A1 was selected. He suspected that running on 50 HZ instead of 60 HZ was causing the motor to run slower and the cycle time was too long. Have you checked your cycle time vs. what the manual calls for?
The reject button works most of the time without random play. Only problem I notice is if a second selection is made before the first selection starts playing it tends to cancel more than one. With constant random play the reject button is pretty hit and miss (mostly miss). It also substitutes some selected songs with random ones. I haven’t tried it with random play at 30 seconds, or 5 & 15 minutes. My guess is it will work better on those settings, particularly at 15 minutes when it’s not trying to play random songs between selections.
No buzzing between songs with volume at normal levels.
I hear nothing in between tracks and only hear a low level buzzing when the volumes is near zero or when the track first starts playing and there’s silence before the song begins. It’s in both channels but is really pretty insignificant (didn’t keep me from purchasing 3 more after I got the first). I think the left channel issue you have has been fixed, even if Fabien isn’t aware of that.
There’s a very low level buzzing that I can only hear at very low volume. Similar to my other emulators but not really a problem.
Good news! I received my replacement emulators yesterday and they all work okay.
I also changed the speaker grill to black and white checked to match the cabinet. 🙂
