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The guy I bought my 2100 from has been involved with jukebox’s since the swinging sixties he told me that he has known Bill for many many years,& that untill he became seriously ill a few years ago travelled all over the states buying machines.
Cheers Scudie
Hi Randy
When I got the 5250 it was missing some components, coin box, key & the top right price window glass. Also one of the title strip pages was broken & all of the page springs were missing.
I wasn’t able to find a blue pricing glass for English currency so bought a US one along with a key and coin box from Bill Buterfield in California. I was able to repair the broken page & fitted rubber orthodontist bands to the pages to replace the springs.
So it has a working slug rejector that accepts old English coins both pre decimal and decimal but a pricing glass for US currency.
I was intending on using the modified emulator as I have had it a couple of years & since adding the separate amp the audio is good.
The wallbox’s in general in the UK are much rarer than the US, it wasn’t until a chain of American style diners opened here (Ed’s Easy diners) that I had seen multiple wallbox’s at one site. Ed’s diners closed down two or three years ago now. I assume that most of the ones that come up for sale on the internet over hear have been imported fairly recently from the US.
As to the price I don’t know if it makes any difference, all the conversions I have done for friends and family have all asked for them to be free play.
Happy New Year.
Scudie
Hi Randy
As you can see in the 2nd photo the body of the extension box is wooden, a piece of 3/4 ply cut to the shape of the back of the the 5250.
Then glued & screwed pieces around the edge to form the sides using very basic hand tools & sand paper shaped the sides & radius’d the corners, this is where the problems began, later while wrapping the box with the strip of stainless steel it became apparent that my wooden box is far from perfectly symmetrical in shape and the radius of the corners needs to be parallel across the width of the box & my box isn’t. Also by cutting the speaker slots in the .75 mm stainless steel caused the metal to firstly distort and secondly become springy which was a real P.I.T.A as every time I tried to straighten out a distortion in one direction it then when tried around the box would spring out of shape somewhere else.
I am going to add a metal reject button to the top of the box, also currently looking for a suitable gland fitting either stainless or chrome for the 240v power cord to enter through the lower side of the box. My intention is to screw the extension to the back of the wallbox using the original wall mount holes.
Have got a lot more polishing to do to try to remove as many of the hammer marks as I can and try to achieve a shiny finish.
Cheers Scudie
Hi Martin
After the V-3WA is there an N or D?
I assume your wallbox will have either a DCU 10 or a DCU 15 credit unit.
Take a look in the Support section on this website there is a manual for the Seeburg Wall-O -Matic 200 on page one it explains the difference between the two units.
They only differ in selection pricing.
The prices and amount of plays that I have listed below are only meant as an example and I am fairly sure will differ to your Wallbox.
Ok if say for instance your credit unit is set for 5 plays for a quarter 3 plays for dime and 1 play for a nickel, then if your momentary switch was connected to the quarter coin switch then one press of the switch would give you 5 plays and if connected to the dime switch 3 plays & so on.
If you decide to go for constant free play if you firstly register enough credits to make a selection possible by triggering one of the coin switches.
Then while watching the credit unit make a selection you should see one of the credit subtract solenoids activate to remove a set number of credits (either 1 ,2 or 3) if you disconnect the wire leading to the solenoid, you will stop it from working, therefor it will allways stay in credit.
Hope that reading the manual and my explanation helps.
Cheers Scudie
Hi Wallbox20
There are a few different variations of the 3WA which one do you have ?
It should tell you on a small metal plate that’s riveted to the inside.
Very basically there are two ways to achieve free play
1 connect a momentary push switch to the relevant terminals on the coin switch so one press would give a set number of plays.
2 register credits on the credit unit then disable the part of the credit unit that removes credit when a selection is made. Thus always staying in credit.
Cheers Scudie
Hi Wallbox20
If your 3wa is set up for free play then yes the v1.5 will accept multiple selections.
otherwise you will have to add credits or deposit coins.
Cheers Scudie
Hi Matthigs
On one of your previous posts the one that shows an image of your computer screen, there is 10 audio files.
Are you sure that they are MP3 format ? as the image in the little square box does not look like that on my PC running Windows 10.
I guess different PCs may use a different image it’s just a suggestion.
Cheers Scudie
Good morning Simong
Well that rules out the two suggestions that I made, I wasn’t aware that the Pla-Mor kit came with an SD card, if it was me I would try another SD just to rule it out.
Cheers Scudie.
Hello Matthigs
I agree with Randy, using the software configure your SD card for the correct DEC & add 160 MP3 files to it.
If you are intending on using the original DEC audio wiring & volume control I would check that the speaker negative circuits are independent of each other befor connecting to your V1.5 speaker terminals. The earlier models SC and SCH both used an audio system where the speaker negatives were common this had to be modified to make it compatible with the wallbox2mp3 system.
Cheers Scudie
Hi Simong
I have been following the progress of your project with interest, sorry I have not been able to be any help with trying to sort out any of the issues that you have encountered, personally I have not worked on a Pla-Mor wallbox or do I have any knowledge on that particular emulator.
I knew Randy had experience with the Pla-Mor set up, having done a couple of them so considered it best to leave it to him to offer advice and information.
It does seem very strange that the first 12 selections play incorrectly while it would appear to correct itself from 13 to 23 and nothing for 24.
Assuming that the emulator is (for the matter of configuration) the same as the standard emulator did you configure the Sd card for any random music?
It is my oppinion that enabling the random function on the standard pre V1.5 emulators has a detrimental affect on the emulators ability to perform reliably. Also I presume that your not using one of the micro SD cards with an adapter as again these have been at the route of some problems.
I do agree with Randy & congratulate you on your project, I think some one will be very happy with there Christmas present, it certainly looks the part👍
Cheers Scudie
Hi Doogle
If the audio is adversely affected by adjusting the volume pot on the V1.5 I would have initially thought that the fault had to be on the V1.5 but as you have already stated that the sound was good when you connect the v1.5 directly to the speakers, then I start to think it has to be relevant to the volume control circuit & or associated wiring of the SC but presently I can not figure out how by adjusting the volume pot on the V1.5 can have any the Seeburg cicuit.
And the audio is also good when listening with earphones, Ie no braking up of the audio when volume pot is adjusted?
Hi Doogle
Does the sound /audio break up when you turn up the volume using the pot on the V1.5 or is it when you are pressing one of the three buttons on the SC ?
Cheers Scudie
Hi Doogle
It’s in the tutorial section, listed as (wiring volume control on Seeburg Sc1-4)
You shouldn’t require any new resistors unless there are any of the originals that are faulty or you require / desire a larger change in volume levels between the three selections.
Cheers Scudie
Hi Doogle
I forgot to ask if you had wired the speakers directly to the V1.5 or are you connecting the V1.5 audio output to the terminal block inside the Consolette thus utilising the Seeburg volume contol & wiring?
Cheers Scudie
Hi Doogle
I am not sure what the difference is between the two classes of amp that is now fitted to the V1.5 class A/B & D
Have you bought your V1.5 since they have re introduced them back on sale? As they were withdrawn for a time because of audio problems related to the volume pot.
It might be worth checking with the team to check that you have one of the newer ones.
Secondly the amp on the V1.4 was of a type were each speaker negative / ground had to be completely independent of the other speaker.
On the Seeburg consolettes the speakers use a common negative / ground which the V1.4 was not compatible with unless the speaker negative/ ground circuitry and wiring was adapted. I think if my memory serves me correctly that one of the amp types on the V1.5 is OK to use with a common ground circuit but the other not.
Again I would check with the team.
Hi Richbooth
Its good to hear that your making progress with your SC2.
I guess you are having the Wb2mp3 unit outside the SC2,
I have a red SC1 in my kitchen (my 3rd) I think it goes really well wth the kitchen colour scheme. It’s freeplay and uses the inbuilt speakers so just the mains cable to plug in.
Cheers Scudie
Hi All
As far as I am aware the SC1-4 are the same apart from colours , some had a red waitress button where the low volume button usually is, don’t know what this model was called.
The SCH accepted half dollar coins as well as the( I think ) the usual other three.
Cheers Scudie
Hi Richbooth
As far as I am aware all of the E M type wallbox’s that I have worked on have had a signal that is a series of ground pulse’s.
Certainly not pulses of 25vac.
Sorry can’t sugest anyone stateside for repairs, stick with it you’ll get there.
I assume you have a manual for the unit?
Cheers Scudie
Hi
The buttons should stay in similar to the 3WA sounds like part of the mech is either damaged /distorted or someone has been adjusting & got it set up wrong.
As to the copper finish / value it’s something I have never considered, I have not owned an SC2 I did have an Sc1 with a copper front cover that had been painted brown, once the paint had been removed it was obvious enough why it had been painted.
I had it sand blasted & powder coated (big mistake)
As to the side glass I have not seen any originals for sale, there was a listing on eBay for a complete decal kit to do the three main glass’s.
I did buy a front cover that was missing all its glass parts (as I had a complete spare chassis) I cut some glass and spray painted the black and gold sections on the inside of the glass, Obviosly the little motif was missing as I did not try to replicate it but as I had done a pair they matched.
Cheers Scudie
