Forum Replies Created
-
Posts
-
Hi Bobwiley
Well I guess it proves that if the 3wa behaves the same way with the credit unit detached and the jumper wire in place, then it can’t be any thing on the credit unit that is causing the problem.
You say you are sure that the credit cancel switch contacts are clean and have the correct settings when in the credit position, have you checked them while in the run position or standby positions?
Cheers Scudie
Hi Stingman
How did you get your second emulator to work if it initially behaved the same as the first one?
Ok so your voltage is ok, and the pulse wiper arm and and disc are clean.
The two flashes of the red led’s are (according to the manual) indicating that the wallbox2mp3 fails to initialize the SD card.
When you configure an SD card did you do so with the software? Following the prompts on the software from the beginning picking the wallbox that’s required to building your title strips.
I guess it’s unlikely but not impossible that you have a faulty SD card,but surely they can’t all be faulty ?
It is also unlikely though again not impossible that you have also received two faulty wb2mp3 emulators, & as you said the second one behaved the same as the first, & you say you managed to get it working last year.
If you configure a Sd card with your choice of 200 tracks and choose the play random music with the minimum time period (not sure what the minimum is, there may be a continuously option ) if the emulator is connected to a pair of speakers, & powered with 5volt DC you should get a song played after the set time, without having to make any selections on the Wallbox infact the emulator would not have to be connected to the emulator at all. This way you can rule out the WRA 200.
Cheers Scudie
I have not personally experienced such a fault as you describe, I have just read your post”Volume control issues” that you started where you had a problem with the emulator crashing when the volume control was used.
As I can not see any response from you to my subsequent suggestions /questions to that problem, what did you do to rectify that problem.
If the replacement unit that you received behaved the same way as the first one, what did you you do to get the second unit working ? Once you had rectified the fault did your first emulator work correctly also?
Are you using a full size Sd card ie not a micro SD with an adapter?
Since you were able to use the unit before you went away for seven months, but now have problems, what can have changed? Are you able to check your 5 volt DC power supply to make sure you are getting the correct voltage?
It might be worth giving the contacts of the wiper arm and the selector plate a bit of a clean. Does the wiper arm compete a full sweep of the selector plate within the time set by the manufacturer? The manual should give you this information.
When you get the red flashing led’s what does the manual say about the fault.
Sorry I can’t give you a specific answer to your problem, perhaps some one else will be able to offer further suggestions.
Cheers Scudie
Have repaired the two broken teeth & reasembled the credit unit, it’s not quite right the tooth on the top wheel requires a little more shaping. I also need to figure out how to set the wheels to achieve the required credits, have been using the instructions for a APU 10.
Any way I have connected the credit unit to a 25vac power through a 47ohm 10 watt resistor and can confirm that it does add credits when the half dollar solenoid is activated.
Cheers Scudie
I took that the credit unit to pieces this afternoon, I was hoping that I could use a couple from an SC credit unit, although similar they are different. They may have fitted / worked in a fashion but as it is the only APU 11- 56 that I could find.
As the plastic credit wheels looked to be made of the same kind of plastic as the gears on the back of a SC /SCH title page unit, (I have in the past had to repair the page unit gear teeth when they have been sheared off) so thought I would have a go at the credit unit.
The photo clearly shows (or to be accurate) doesn’t show the missing teeth.
Cheers Scudie
Have just had a quick look at that credit unit and it appears to have a couple of missing teeth , one on the top small cream coloured wheel and one on the green coloured wheel directly below it, if you get the chance could you post a close up photo of the wheels of your credit unit please.
Cheers Scudie
Hi Yes the coin switches should be open untill triggered, yes my coin switch’s are open until actuated.
I had noticed that the speaker was missing in your first photo, but had failed to notice that the volume control unit is also missing in the photo, I assume from your description of making a fake Spring system that you have part of the volume contol but it’s not complete?
I have had a look through some spares & located a APU 11-56 credit unit, it’s out of an SCH as it has a 15 pin plug, I don’t know it’s condition as I have never tested it but will take a look at it later & connect it up using the resistor I have.
Cheers Scudie
Hi I have been thinking about the coin switch problem on your SCH,
It’s been a while since I did any work on a SCH & the one I had did look different to yours as the coin switch assembly was a plastic affair, may be it was a later model or maybe it had been swapped at some point, it also had a foil type sticker serial number rather than a riveted plate.
As far as I can see the only solenoids in a SCH are on the Credit unit itself ?
As the speaker contol relay unit that is in a SC1-4 located behind the volume switches is not there in a SCH.
On the credit unit there are three coin switch related ones and two that a part of the audio circuit. The coin switch circuitry on the diagram is slightly different but I can’t see why it should not work the same as a SC.
I will try to take a look at one later.
Cheers Scudie
Hi M _schrenk
Is the hum there as soon as the power is switched on ?
Are your coin switches open until activated by yourself or by a coin deposited.
Which solenoid is buzzing is it on the credit unit?
Cheers Scudie
Hi Free play ie being able to make a selection without having to deposit coins can be achieved in various ways dependent on the make / model of the wall box you are using.
In most cases you can fit a momentary switch to one of the coin switches and when pressed this will register a certain amount of credits / plays. Changing to a different coin switch would either increase or decrease the credits registered by each press of the switch.
On the first Seeburg Sc1 I converted the credit unit and its wiring plug was missing, so I found a way to put the unit into free play without the credit unit, so in this case with a jumper wire fitted to the 12 pin credit plug the wiper arm always comes to rest in the credit position. There for never runs out of credit.
Certain wallbox’s Wurlitzer 5210 and 5250 there is only one coin switch, the amount of credits established is determined by mechanical means rather than electrical so a momentary switch on one of these will only register one play.
Hope this makes sense.
Cheers Scudie
Hi Bobwiley
I have some speakers that I have had for a while I think the came out of an old TV, any way I have made the sides of the box to accept these & have now partitioned off the speakers from the rest of the box, still looking for a piece of stainless steel that’s suitable for the job of covering the box.
The weather has been good here again so have been busy outside for the last few days, maybe have another look at it this weekend. how are you getting on with your 3WA?
Hi M_Shrenk
Thanks for the image of the wiring diagram it will be of a help to others.
I see Klaatu has worked some kind of magic on it and changed your photo into what looks like a PDF diagram.
Thanks Klaatu for also adding the image to the support section Manuals etc, for everyone to use.
Cheers Scudie
Decided to go ahead and box in the speakers whether it’s nesseccary or not. Though I am going to make the partitions removeable.
I had an old stainless steel kitchen sink that I salvaged & thought that I would be able to cut a section from it to form around the wooden box, but alsas after cutting it up I have come to the conclusion that I will nead to source a piece of stainless from a different source.
Cheers Scudie
Good morning M_shrenk
Is the SCH wiring diagram paper or a PDF file of one ?
If you have it in PDF would you mind sharing it with others on the forum?
As far as I am aware there isn’t a copy of that particular diagram in the Support section on this site, several of the Manuals to be found there were donated to the site by its users.
By the look of it the resistors you have ordered they look to be quite a bit shorter in length, maybe half as long as the one I used.
Cheers Scudie
Hi M Shrenk
I am sure that it will sort out your problem, you could just make the unit freeplay.
The resistor you need will look something like this
Glad that I was able to help with the SCH . I don’t suppose you have a wiring diagram for the SCH do you? I Have got one for the SC1-4 but the H is different.
Cheers Scudie
Hi guys you could also add a double pole on off switch In either the speaker negative or positive wiring . I have done that on a couple of installations, make sure the switch is an on/ off type and not momentary.
Cheers Scudie
That’s similar to what I was intending to do, was intending to screw the box to the back of the wallbox using the wall hanging holes.
I have mounted some speakers in the sides of the box already.
I like the look of the switches you have use adjacent to the volume control.
Cheers Scudie
Hello M Shrenk
I would think that the reason that the wires were cut was at some point the quarter coin switch has been connected to the dime wire so achieving just one credit for a quarter.
Any how the reason nothing happens when you activate a coin switch is that there is no power to any of the coin switch terminals, these are the 3 terminals on the separate connector block just to the left of the main terminal strip, they would have been originally supplied by the jukebox.
What you have to do is connect all 3 wires brown, red, and orange together on one common terminal (top screw) then using a 40-50 Ohm 10 Watt power Resistor connect the associated lower screw to the 25vac White terminal on the main connection strip.
The resistor will be quite a large ceramic item approximately 50mm long & 10mm thick.
Cheers Scudie
Good Morning Bob
It occurred to me yesterday that if you are having difficulties with access to the credit cancel and carryover switches, if you can determine the colour of each wire that connects to u, v, & w contacts of a switch, the wire connections being easier to gain access to, using your meter in continuity mode (audible signal) you should be able to determine whether a pair of contacts are open or closed.
Obviosly you can’t measure gaps this way, but with the power off, if you follow the checks in the manual, test to see if you have continuity ( or not ) through any pair of contacts in standby , credit , and cycle modes by manually advancing the mechanism.
Cheers Scudie
