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I like the idea of choosing the order by having a naming order or having it random if the songs aren’t numbered. This is going to be an awesome feature. Keep up the great work!
Any more info on the updated board? I just got mine installed and having issues with volume pot controlling balance. Thanks!
I purchased all of the parts and soldered it up into my own kit.
The LEDs are the 144 led per meter style for maximum density.
BTF-LIGHTING WS2812B 144 LEDs/Pixels/m Individual Addressable Full Color led Pixel Strip Dream Color Non-Waterproof 3.2FT 1m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDTEGGO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_eds7DbE8F3GK8
The controller is off the shelf as well. Took a bit of soldering about 30 welds to wire it all to spread from the center and to break for the light fixtures to keep those original. Requires 2 tiny holes to be drilled that can’t be seen upon removal so I made it the least destructive modification as possible.
The controller board comes with integrated mic and an RF remote controller. $12.99us has limited programs but it’s the only mic integrated board that will fit inside the top cover.
Available under the name SP106E https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792T73VB/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_mjs7DbQQYJNG6
When wiring the LEDs the signal only works one way. I start with the wire in the center from the board and split that top and bottom to both strips.
Once it reaches the bottom strips the 3 wire power and data get wired up to the center of 2 strips turned opposite so the patterns radiate from the center outward. (Because data only flows one way to each chip).
Making them have a nice pattern is the key with a cheap controller.
For the top leds I used 4 separate led pieces. Radiating from the center out to the edge. It can be done in 1 strip but that will go over the original light fixtures. I just soldered those connections in place right on the lid to make it easy to measure and fit between the pins.
I always use real copper core wire that is tinned to resist corrosion, in high grade silicone sleeve. Having some white wire will make the install nearly invisible.
I squeezed 36 led on the bottom (could be 38) and 38 on top for a total of 74 LEDs installed nearly invisibly.
To power it I am using a board to convert 25vac to 5vdc. It barely fits. $10 on amazon.
Cost of project is about $35 using amazon,
about $20 ordering from china and waiting on the boat.
I have parts coming from the boat but I wanted to get prototyping asap. I spent much more on things that didn’t work out, not stable enough voltage or able to carry the load, too large of a footprint, etc.
Hope that helps. If you decide to pull the plug and buy the stuff i’ll pop the lid on Project A and take a video showing the connections.
I found this model TR100VA001 from Functional Devices. Works great. Built in breaker. There is also a TR100VA001US (same model) but made in the USA.
It has only 4 wires. AC Common and AC Common. Color coded. The white on yellow is going to be hard to see for some on the wires but otherwise solid voltage at 25v constant.
That supply should be good for at least what, 3-4 wallboxes?
I found that if the coin holder tray beneath the coin box is bent a little to accomodate it that it fits inside the SC-1 Very snugly. Once it’s in it’s going to be in there like swimwear. $27.45 on Amazon w/Prime.
I was just going to run 24vac to the box but I guess 110 it is, because I think that power supply is not wanting to come out, seriously. I was going to remove it to add some VHB tape for a permanent (unless you are really really very determined) Install. I think I will do an EMI filter IEC socket and call it a day.
