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I have an Seeburg SC2 that I finally managed to open without damage.
I set up my 3WA without issue, but having trouble with this one. I connect my 24VAC transformer to the RED and ORANGE on the terminal strip and no lights turn on. If I press the 2 coin switches, the credit unit tries to tick up a credit, but it gets stuck. I suspect that might need a good cleaning.
From my old electronics repair days, I remember the deader the better, as it is usually a power issue. I tried to follow the red and orange wired and they seem to terminate on the coin switch. This leads me to believe that I need to add 24VAC somewhere else as well, as there is no clear path to power the lights.
Does anyone have any suggestions on where I should hook up the power?
Also, does this unit have to be rigged in free play mode or should it work with coins?
Cheers!
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Hi Richbooth
If your SC2 is wired the same as an SC1 it would appear that you have wired your transformer to the small connector strip that I believe was intended for the income totaliser.
Locate the 7 terminal stip and connect your transformer to black (ground ) and white (25VAC )
The choice of having it working on coins or free play is up to you.
Providing your wallbox has a credit unit that has no broken gears ( they are plastic & the teeth shear off) there is no reason why you can’t have it working on coins.
Theres no mention of it in the manual for the wb2mp3 but the literature from data sync the following, I am not sure why the resistor is required just passing on the info.
Hope the information helps.
Cheers Scudie
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@scudie : regarding datasync resistor, I never tried it, but could it be an other way to turn it to free play ?
Even if it’s easier to change a cable location for same purpose.
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Scudie,
You have a great memory! No, I have not made any headway. As near as I can figure, It has to be shutting off signaling prematurely on the “0” selections. If I check them with a DVM they read as they should, they only are wrong when the wiper spins around. That tells me my button switches are OK and the wires to the “disc” are OK. I’m not familiar enough with the switches to know which one cuts off the reading (though I did read something about they do stop it to prevent people from playing without coins.). Any ideas are welcome and appreciated!
As for the SC2 I’m going to try your suggestion, and will report back.
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Scudie,
I’m starting to understand these things, if only a little. I did check the gears, and they appear to be in good shape, but didn’t tear them apart. I have to imagine that someone has a 3D print rendering of them?
Once I connected as you outlines, it came to life. Buttons didn’t work but it woke up. A few hours tweaking and cleaning and it is working. Too tired to hook it up to the WallBox2MP3 tonight.
I did notice that the buttons pop out almost immediately, where as on the 3WA they stay in for a few seconds before clearing. Don’t know if that is normal for these units?
Have to ask a personal opinion: this unit is a copper unit that is in tough shape… certainly more than some polish. Saw one that was refinished in gloss red and thought it was quite sharp. Would giving it a nice coat of red lacquer detract for the collector value of this item? They do have copper-ish spray paint, which is an option.
Also, the front glass and left glass are cracked. I notice they have silk screening on them. What do people do ? Just replace the glass with plain? Look for someone selling old glass? Buy aftermarket?
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Hi
The buttons should stay in similar to the 3WA sounds like part of the mech is either damaged /distorted or someone has been adjusting & got it set up wrong.
As to the copper finish / value it’s something I have never considered, I have not owned an SC2 I did have an Sc1 with a copper front cover that had been painted brown, once the paint had been removed it was obvious enough why it had been painted.
I had it sand blasted & powder coated (big mistake)
As to the side glass I have not seen any originals for sale, there was a listing on eBay for a complete decal kit to do the three main glass’s.
I did buy a front cover that was missing all its glass parts (as I had a complete spare chassis) I cut some glass and spray painted the black and gold sections on the inside of the glass, Obviosly the little motif was missing as I did not try to replicate it but as I had done a pair they matched.
Cheers Scudie
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For the sign glass, you can ask a shop making vinyl sign, if they can reproduce it.
Either black printed on gold, or one gold sheet + one black sheet for lettering.Or like Scudie did, spray paint.
Regarding value because it’s repainted. Who cares, it’s yours, make one you like. They could be 2-tone painted also with all those square shape. Only a matter of test and imagination.
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Hello all,
I learning a lot about these wallboxes… like how incredibly simple their task is, but how complex a task it is to do it! I’m also learning that there isn’t a whole lot of repair options for someone to breathe life back into them. For my 3WA I’m going to leave it for now without unique selections for A-V + 0.
For the SC2, its a bit more complicated. I have the thing working, but am receiving no signal from BLUE (3rd connection from the right on the large connector) to ground. Interestingly, If i look for signal from BLUE to 24V I do show signal, but the voltage is always high, and goes to ground causing the signal to be inversed.
Anyone have any ideas where to start on this? Has anyone used a reliable company to repair these stateside if I admit to defeat? (I’m not ready for that, yet!)
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Hi Richbooth
As far as I am aware all of the E M type wallbox’s that I have worked on have had a signal that is a series of ground pulse’s.
Certainly not pulses of 25vac.
Sorry can’t sugest anyone stateside for repairs, stick with it you’ll get there.
I assume you have a manual for the unit?
Cheers Scudie
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Hi Scufir,
just learned something funny… when I enter “Scudie” my auto correct changes it to “Advisor”. 😂
i have managed to make some progress, albeit a little bit. I have determined that there is a switch that interrupts the signal when disconnected (presumably to prevent cheating?). I followed the signal wires backwards to this switch. The wire is white with a blue stripe. If I bypass the switch, I can get the LED I added across the signal wires to flash. I know I need to figure the adjustment procedure for this switch and the rotating wiper. A service manual for the SC2 would be nice, but I can’t seem to find one. Perchance do you have one?
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To all who offered help along the way, “Thank you!”
I finally managed to get my SC2 functioning as it was designed to. Turns out it was a combination of things keeping her from operating correctly. It required the button reset bar to be adjusted, the switches needed adjustment and finally the WOM (Wall-O-Matic) wiper assembly adjustment. Those three items, and a good coin slot cleaning was all it took.
I’ve wet sanded the whole unit as the copper coating was in tough shape, and sprayed it gloss red. I needed to replace the front and side glass which required some graphic work. It actually came out better than I thought. I need to make a cable and replace a few light bulbs and it’s ready for display. I’ll post photos when it’s completely finished.I’m ready to re tackle the 3WA again!
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Hi Richbooth
Its good to hear that your making progress with your SC2.
I guess you are having the Wb2mp3 unit outside the SC2,
I have a red SC1 in my kitchen (my 3rd) I think it goes really well wth the kitchen colour scheme. It’s freeplay and uses the inbuilt speakers so just the mains cable to plug in.
Cheers Scudie
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Hi All,
well I got all my bits and pieces and have my sc1 wall box up and running, the emulator is a nice piece of kit, and using SD cards very easy, but I have one problem don’t know if anyone else has experience this, but if I turn the sound knob passed a certain point it interferes with the sound output and music is interrupted, it only likes to be in the very low side, but then it’s to low for me, I haven’t tried the remote pot yet does it isolate the fixed pot?, Thanks doogle
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Hi doogle,
Your didn’t mention what you are feeding the sound into, but if first check using a pair of headphones into the 3.5mm Jack onboard the WallBox2MP3 and see if the sound is OK. Also, there is a bank of DIP switches #3 switches between Amolifier type A/B and D. I have mine set to A/B feeding the speakers in my wallbox and it plays great.
To me, it sounds like you are feeding into an amplified device and it is limiting it out. Reply back and let us know what’s going on.
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Hi Doogle
I am not sure what the difference is between the two classes of amp that is now fitted to the V1.5 class A/B & D
Have you bought your V1.5 since they have re introduced them back on sale? As they were withdrawn for a time because of audio problems related to the volume pot.
It might be worth checking with the team to check that you have one of the newer ones.
Secondly the amp on the V1.4 was of a type were each speaker negative / ground had to be completely independent of the other speaker.
On the Seeburg consolettes the speakers use a common negative / ground which the V1.4 was not compatible with unless the speaker negative/ ground circuitry and wiring was adapted. I think if my memory serves me correctly that one of the amp types on the V1.5 is OK to use with a common ground circuit but the other not.
Again I would check with the team.
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Hi Doogle
It’s in the tutorial section, listed as (wiring volume control on Seeburg Sc1-4)
You shouldn’t require any new resistors unless there are any of the originals that are faulty or you require / desire a larger change in volume levels between the three selections.
Cheers Scudie
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Hi Scudie,
yes when it’s playing if the volume knob on the v1.5 is turned up it has the effect of interrupting the track playing breaks up it sort of stop starts, the volume on the v1.5 is only turned about 1/2 of the way, one thing I’ve noticed when it does happen the blue on light slightly flickers and dips.
doogle
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Hi Doogle
If the audio is adversely affected by adjusting the volume pot on the V1.5 I would have initially thought that the fault had to be on the V1.5 but as you have already stated that the sound was good when you connect the v1.5 directly to the speakers, then I start to think it has to be relevant to the volume control circuit & or associated wiring of the SC but presently I can not figure out how by adjusting the volume pot on the V1.5 can have any the Seeburg cicuit.
And the audio is also good when listening with earphones, Ie no braking up of the audio when volume pot is adjusted?
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